I wasn't going to publish this one as it is not the happiest blog entry however i guess it was an experience worth mentioning.
We managed to arrange flights from Rwanda to Kilimanjaro to save 3 days on dodgy buses and even dodgier roads, the best decision yet. This gave us a few days to explore Kigali
and watch the disappointing rugby semifinals. Our time in Kigali was spent looking at the genocide memorials and museum. We went out to 2 of the churches where massacres occurred, it was very raw. I have seen the memorials and killing fields in Cambodia before but this was much more confronting. I don't know if it is just that it is more recent or that it was not as touristy but you walked away wondering how people can do this to each other!
We managed to arrange flights from Rwanda to Kilimanjaro to save 3 days on dodgy buses and even dodgier roads, the best decision yet. This gave us a few days to explore Kigali
and watch the disappointing rugby semifinals. Our time in Kigali was spent looking at the genocide memorials and museum. We went out to 2 of the churches where massacres occurred, it was very raw. I have seen the memorials and killing fields in Cambodia before but this was much more confronting. I don't know if it is just that it is more recent or that it was not as touristy but you walked away wondering how people can do this to each other! The churches, Natarama (5000 killed) and Nyamata (10,000 killed), were both basically hideouts for Tutsi women and children. Eventually they were discovered and bus loads of Hutu soldiers (and surrounding locals) came and killed them. It was horrific. At one church the soldiers started the massacre by lobbing in hand grenades into the locked church, followed by killing them with machetes, clubs or (as in Cambodia) smashing the children against the wall. It was interesting how in two genocides, decades apart, they killed the children the same way. In both churches the skulls and bones were left there with notable damage from clubs, machetes and 
bullet holes. We were the only people there and got a tour from the local caretaker.
bullet holes. We were the only people there and got a tour from the local caretaker. What I found amazing that the the difference between the Hutu and Tutsi was not in their blood but only in social standing. If I recall the difference originally was if you had more or less then 10 cows!! The Tutsi people the received preferential treatment from the Belgians in the early 1900's which over time caused the above events. The memorial was quite informative and emotional. It was sad to read the memorials of the young children slaughtered. One child was quoted "Don't worry mum, the UN will save us" shortly before she was taken away. It was quite emotional.
I don't know if it was just me but I felt an uneasiness about the city. I didn't know who was tutsi and who was hutu so I dared not talk about it to the locals. I guess it was very recent and forgiveness does take a long time!
On a happier note Kigali is a great African city and Rwanda a great country. It is grea
t to see that it is moving in the right direction, without the corruption that infests other governments. It was the first time we felt comfortable walking but from the pub at night! A luxury often forgotten especially when cabs are hard to come by or there is a shortage of witches hats!!
t to see that it is moving in the right direction, without the corruption that infests other governments. It was the first time we felt comfortable walking but from the pub at night! A luxury often forgotten especially when cabs are hard to come by or there is a shortage of witches hats!!N.B. Tip for young players: if you bring USD into Rwanda made sure they are printed after 2005 (i think) otherwise they won't be accepted.
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