I came into Zimbabwe not really having much of an idea of what to expect. I asked alot of people about zim before crossing the border and they told me alot of different stories. I would then ask them if they had been there and usually the answer was no! They were, like myself, creating a mental image based mostly upon the medias horror stories. So I was thinking tha
t I would come out beheaded, thinner, walletless and with a well worn pair of thongs! That could not have been further form the truth!
t I would come out beheaded, thinner, walletless and with a well worn pair of thongs! That could not have been further form the truth!The border from Botswana was more organised than the nam-bots border so I easliy made it to the Bulywayo, the first big town in the west. This was where I had my introduction into the economy! Forget bringing a wallet to zim, bring either a pair of cargo pants or a backpack, you are carrying around at least a 3 inch thick pile of notes at any one time!! The exchange rate (on the black market) when I was there was a little under 2 million zim dollars to one usd (it changed to around 2.3 million by the time I left)!! I found few 1 zim dollar notes blowing in the street, people just throw it away. If it was a little softer it would be significantly cheaper to wipe your arse with it instead of buying a roll of toilet paper!!
The main reason for stopping in Bulywayo was to visit the Matembo national park renowned for its marvellous granite terrain. When I arrived at the hostel the manager/owner seemed kind and I pic
ked his brain about getting around the rest of Zimbabwe. The information he was giving me was not reassuring and sounded very expensive! (It turned out most of the information coming out of his mouth turned brown and smelt a little funny when it hit the atmosphere!) I was pretty keen to see the national park so I though long and hard and then handed over the $100 to go. The next morning I was talking to the other two travellers there and eventually they told me that they only paid $60, I was furious! I asked them if it was ok for me to hit up the manager about it and then I let him have it. The manager called in the other traveller and started tearing strips off him because he told me the price, I jumped to his defence and accused manager of riping me off. I told him I no longer wanted to go and asked for my money back. He gave it to me and then kicked me out of the hostel. I then told him this was not smart business and he was acting like a 2 year old throwing tantrums! He didn't care. So I sat down ate my breakfast, packed my bag and headed off. When I handed in the key I told him how much I enjoyed the stay and that I would tell all of my friends about it and maybe even drop a line to the lonely planet as I was so impressed (an empty threat due to my laziness). On the way out at the gate I asked the gardener the way to the bus station, the manager heard me do this and came running outside yelling at the gardener to be quite. I thanked the gardener, said a passing comment to the manager and left. This was my only bad experience with the people in Zimbabwe, everyone else was so friendly and helpful. It is the most friendly country I have travelled in Africa so far.
ked his brain about getting around the rest of Zimbabwe. The information he was giving me was not reassuring and sounded very expensive! (It turned out most of the information coming out of his mouth turned brown and smelt a little funny when it hit the atmosphere!) I was pretty keen to see the national park so I though long and hard and then handed over the $100 to go. The next morning I was talking to the other two travellers there and eventually they told me that they only paid $60, I was furious! I asked them if it was ok for me to hit up the manager about it and then I let him have it. The manager called in the other traveller and started tearing strips off him because he told me the price, I jumped to his defence and accused manager of riping me off. I told him I no longer wanted to go and asked for my money back. He gave it to me and then kicked me out of the hostel. I then told him this was not smart business and he was acting like a 2 year old throwing tantrums! He didn't care. So I sat down ate my breakfast, packed my bag and headed off. When I handed in the key I told him how much I enjoyed the stay and that I would tell all of my friends about it and maybe even drop a line to the lonely planet as I was so impressed (an empty threat due to my laziness). On the way out at the gate I asked the gardener the way to the bus station, the manager heard me do this and came running outside yelling at the gardener to be quite. I thanked the gardener, said a passing comment to the manager and left. This was my only bad experience with the people in Zimbabwe, everyone else was so friendly and helpful. It is the most friendly country I have travelled in Africa so far.From Bulywayo I managed to get a combie to Masvingo, the gateway to the impressive great Zimbabwe ruins. I had a late start to the mornings travels due to the above events but managed to arrive at great Zimbabwe by 6. I still had a few kilometers to walk to the ca
mpground and it was getting dark, eventually I made it to the campsite (in the middle of nowhere) to be welcomed by the sight of a overland truck. It was the first time I was happy to seem one of these metal behemoths. It had 6 aussies on it who offered me a beer as soon as I arrived, they must have read my mind!
mpground and it was getting dark, eventually I made it to the campsite (in the middle of nowhere) to be welcomed by the sight of a overland truck. It was the first time I was happy to seem one of these metal behemoths. It had 6 aussies on it who offered me a beer as soon as I arrived, they must have read my mind!The ruins were quite impressive, created in the 1200's and are the largest ruins south of the pyramids. The buildings were created using granite bricks and tower over 11m in some parts. When I saw the ruins it was drizzling all day which was not pleasant however it added to the place's mystery with the rock walls being covered in mist. I was the only person there (as the truck already left) which made it a truly surreal experience. Funnily the museum did not have power (common in zim) so you had to view by torchlight!
I luckily managed to snare a ride in the back of a ute to Harare 300km away which saved a few hours on buses. An hour into the trip the rain clouds began to darken and Joesph 
told me to jump inside with the rest of his family. There were now 7 in the dual cab ute which was cozy! It was fun though, I got to know the family and we shared a laugh. Later on in the week they invited me around for dinner at their house. It was a great night feasting on goats lung and Zimbabwe sausages (stomach rapped in intestine) which I politely enjoyed. I took a few photos and the kids all enjoyed posing for the camera. They had a few sad stories, like most in Zim, however they were a prime example of how resilient and happy the Zimbabweans are! I will definitely try and keep in touch with them.
told me to jump inside with the rest of his family. There were now 7 in the dual cab ute which was cozy! It was fun though, I got to know the family and we shared a laugh. Later on in the week they invited me around for dinner at their house. It was a great night feasting on goats lung and Zimbabwe sausages (stomach rapped in intestine) which I politely enjoyed. I took a few photos and the kids all enjoyed posing for the camera. They had a few sad stories, like most in Zim, however they were a prime example of how resilient and happy the Zimbabweans are! I will definitely try and keep in touch with them.Harare was a great city, I loved it. It was one of the safest I have been to also. I never felt worried even jogging through the streets at night. The supermarkets were not a
s empty as they were in Bully however they were expensive for local standards. The local market was where the majority of people shop and it is quite easy to buy enough food for the day with 2 dollars!! The atmosphere was electric and reminded me of a busy market in Asia. The other highlight of Harare was the very intricate stone carvings. They were stone cheap (ha!) so after finding out that international air freight was only $1 per kilo I could not help myself. I bought 20kgs worth and sent them home. I even considered starting an importing business!! (as it turns out only three made it back in one piece, it was worth a try)
s empty as they were in Bully however they were expensive for local standards. The local market was where the majority of people shop and it is quite easy to buy enough food for the day with 2 dollars!! The atmosphere was electric and reminded me of a busy market in Asia. The other highlight of Harare was the very intricate stone carvings. They were stone cheap (ha!) so after finding out that international air freight was only $1 per kilo I could not help myself. I bought 20kgs worth and sent them home. I even considered starting an importing business!! (as it turns out only three made it back in one piece, it was worth a try)After spending a relaxing few days in Harare I headed to the eastern highlands for some hiking. I had heard many great things about the beauty of this place from the locals 
so I was excited about going there. I arrived in Chimanimani on one of the slowest buses I had ever been on!! I spread the word that there was a whitey wanting to do some hiking and soon enough I had organised to head up the next day with my guide, Morgan.
so I was excited about going there. I arrived in Chimanimani on one of the slowest buses I had ever been on!! I spread the word that there was a whitey wanting to do some hiking and soon enough I had organised to head up the next day with my guide, Morgan. It was a tough hike up to the camp carrying all of my gear. The setting of the camp was one of the more beautiful places I have been, purched on the edge of a hill over looking a valley and the mountains that border Mozambique. We did our first walk that afternoon to skeleton pass, an old guerrilla trail that the Mozambique people used during the civil war. The peak on the border overlooked the flats of Mozambique which were beautiful in the glow of the afternoon sunlight. The area was also surrounded by many waterfalls which provided fresh drinking water and a nice place to cool off. The following day we hiked up Mt Binga, the second highest peak in zim and the highest in Mozambique. It was alittle overcast when we re
ached the summit so the view was limited. We passed a couple of falls on the way back to camp which provided me with a much needed swim! Getting back into town was a bit more challenging as we did not arrange a ride. We had to hike 15km back to the road, after coming down form the mountain and then wait for a lift. Eventually a tractor came by so we jumped on. It was only going at walking pace but it was nice to sit and relax.
ached the summit so the view was limited. We passed a couple of falls on the way back to camp which provided me with a much needed swim! Getting back into town was a bit more challenging as we did not arrange a ride. We had to hike 15km back to the road, after coming down form the mountain and then wait for a lift. Eventually a tractor came by so we jumped on. It was only going at walking pace but it was nice to sit and relax.The next day I managed to hitch a ride back upto the border town, Mutare. I quickly spent my last remaining zim dollars and jumped into a combi to the border. It was sad to leave zim but the beaches and seafood were calling (even if it was in Portuguese!).
Photo link http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=40430&l=2be3f&id=722635930
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